split pea soup with ham

 

serves 12

ingredients

stock
1 ham shank
1 tablespoon canola or extra light olive oil 
12 black peppercorns
5 sprigs fresh thyme
5 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
1 carrot, chopped in 3 pieces
1-2 celery stalks with leaves, chopped in 3 pieces each
1 wedge of yellow onion
1/2 leek, split lengthwise 
10-12 cups water

mirepoix + ham + garlic 
6-8 carrots, 1/2-dice
6-8 celery stalks, 1/2-inch dice
10-12 ounces ham steak, 1/2-inch dice
2 medium onions, 1/2 inch dice
8-10 cloves minced garlic
2 pounds split peas
canola or extra light olive oil
1 –2 teaspoons sea salt

directions

stock
Heat the oil in a large pot, on medium high.  Brown the ham shank on all sides.  Create a bouquet garni by placing the remaining stock ingredients in a cheesecloth or soup sock.  Tie loose ends securely and place in the pot along with the ham shank.  Cover with water, and simmer for up to one hour.

mirepoix + ham + garlic
While the stock simmers, add a few glugs of canola or extra light olive oil to a large heavy bottom skillet, on medium heat.  Add the garlic, stirring until fragrant and lightly colored.  Next, add the onions, stirring for about 5 minutes.  Turn heat to medium high and add the ham.  Stir intermittently, allowing the ham to color a bit.  When the ham begins to brown, add in carrots and celery, stirring until vegetables begin to soften a bit but still hold their shape.

Remove bouquet garni and ham shank from the stock pot.  Skim or strain any foam or loose bits floating in the stock.  Bring stock to a boil.  Add peas, ham and vegetables and additional water to .  Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes to one hour.  Season with salt to taste.  Soup keeps well, refrigerated, for up to three days and freezes well for up to three months.  Warm over low heat, adding additional water as needed.

arugula salad with chanterelles, bacon, heirloom tomatoes and bleu cheese

  

serves 4

ingredients

salad
10 ounces arugula or baby arugula
1 pint cherry tomatoes (heirloom, when available)
12 ounces chanterelle mushrooms
8 ounces thick bacon or lardons
4 oz. semi-firm bleu cheese (i.e. Rogue, Estrella or Little Boy Blue)
extra virgin olive oil
coarse sea salt

vinaigrette
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 – 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
freshly ground black pepper
sea salt

directions

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit

Prepare vinaigrette (see recipe below).  Rinse arugula well and pat dry.  If using standard arugula, it may be necessary to tear the leaves in half and remove the stems.  Set aside.  Rinse cherry tomatoes, halve with a serrated knife and set aside.  Slice bleu cheese into four slab-like pieces.  Place each slice, separately, on parchment or waxed paper to keep from sticking to one another.  Chill until needed.

Place chanterelles on a clean dish towel or paper towel.  Use the towel to brush off any bits of dirt or forest debris still clinging to the mushrooms.  Discard any that are discolored or overly soggy.  Keep small chanterelles whole and halve or quarter larger ones.  Place on a baking sheet lined with foil.  Drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt.  Toss to coat.  Roast in a hot oven for 25-30 minutes.  Drain occasionally (reserving juices for stock, if desired).  

While the mushrooms are roasting, slice bacon into 1/4 inch pieces.  In a heavy bottom skillet, fry over medium heat until crisp. Remove from pan and place over paper towels to drain.  Divide arugula between four dinner plates.  Scatter tomatoes, chanterelles and bacon evenly throughout the arugula.  Drizzle each salad with a few spoonfuls of vinaigrette and top each with a thin slab of bleu cheese. 

vinaigrette
Whisk together balsamic vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper, until sugar and salt are dissolved.  Add olive oil in a slow stream, whisking constantly to emulsify.  Alternately, vinaigrette can be prepared by combining all ingredients in an airtight jar and shaking to emulsify.  Taste and adjust as desired.   

spaghetti with simple tomato basil sauce, meatballs and fresh peas

yields 4 servings

ingredients

olive oil 
sea salt
2/3 pound fresh peas in pods
1 pound spaghetti (such as barilla plus)
a block of parmesan reggiano, for serving

meatballs
1/2 bunch marjoram, leaves picked, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
3/4 cup good quality fine bread crumbs*
1/2 cup grated fresh parmesan reggiano
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 pound ground sausage
1/2 pound ground beef

tomato basil sauce
olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small bunch fresh basil, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped
1 – 28 oz. can good quality plum tomatoes
sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
good quality balsamic vinegar

directions

Shell peas and set aside.

*For bread crumbs, tear half a crusty baguette (preferably day old) into small pieces and pulse until fine in a food processor.  Place in oven on low broil for 2 – 5 minutes, stirring as needed, until evenly browned.  Voila.  Instant bread crumbs.

meatballs
Combine first seven ingredients until well mixed.  With your hands, add ground beef and sausage to the mixture, breaking the meat into smaller chunks.  Claw at the meat rather than kneading it, being careful not to over mix as meat will easily become tough. 

Have a bowl of cold water nearby.  Dip hands in water before pinching off enough meat to gently form 1-1/2 inch balls.  Place meatballs on plate and set aside.

Place each meatball in the ‘cup’ of a cupcake tin, greased with olive oil.  Bake in the oven at 400 degree oven for about 15 minutes or until firm but not solid.  Cut into one meatball to be certain it is fully cooked.  This low-maintenance method eliminates the mess of cooking in the skillet and yields perfect meatballs with uniform color and shape.  For stovetop method, cook in two batches in a a large skillet with two glugs of olive oil, turning to brown evenly.  Once finished, transfer meatballs to a paper towel lined plate. 

At this point, place the spaghetti in a large pot of  boiling water and cook according to package directions, until al dente.

tomato sauce
Heat a medium saucepan and pour in a glug or two of olive oil.  Add sliced garlic and chopped basil stalks, stirring now and then until garlic begins to color.  Sprinkle 2/3 of the basil in the pan.  Add the tomatoes, sauce and all.  Bring to a simmer, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon.  Season to taste.  Add a splash of balsamic vinegar.  Stir and turn heat to medium-low to keep warm.

assembly
Warm meatballs in a large skillet over medium heat.  Divide pasta and meatballs between four plates or bowls.  Spoon over tomato sauce.  Sprinkle remaining basil and a handful of peas over each dish.  Finish with shaved parmesan.

Pairs well with a slightly sweet, fruit forward wine such as prosecco, rose or pinot grigio.

Recipe adapted from ‘Jamie at Home- Cook Your Way to the Good Life’ by Jamie Oliver.

arugula salad with chevre, fresh peas and lemon

yields 4 servings

ingredients

8 oz. arugula, baby or regular
1/2 pound fresh English peas in pods
Juice of 1/2 lemon or about 1 tablespoon
3 tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil
4 oz. crumbled chevre, such as Laura Chenel
sea salt and fresh ground pepper

Directions

Wash arugula carefully to remove any dirt or sand.  Gently pat dry with a clean kitchen towel.  Discard any wilted leaves.  Place in a bowl.  Shell peas.  Taste a pea or two.  If the peas are too starchy or not particularly sweet, blanch in a pot of boiling water and rinse with cold water.  Add half of the peas to the arugula.

In a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper.  Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.  Pour dressing over arugula and peas, tossing lightly, to combine.  Place salad on four small plates and sprinkle each with crumbled chevre and remaining peas.  Finish with a touch of fresh ground pepper.

Lovely with a crisp white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc.

smashed fresh pea and fava bean bruschetta

yields 4 – 6 servings

ingredients

1 pound English peas in the pods
1-1/2 pounds fava beans in the pods
1 small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked
Maldon sea salt and fresh ground pepper
extra virgin olive oil
2 ounces fresh pecorino, such as Toscano Stagianato
12 – 1/2” slices good quality, chewy baguette
juice of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, unpeeled, cut in half
1 large ball buffalo mozzarella
1 handful pea shoots, if available

Directions 

Shell peas and fava beans into separate bowls.  In a small saucepan with a steamer basket, blanch fava beans for about three minutes.  Rinse in cold water.  Pinch one end to remove the bright green bean from its pale outer shell.  Set aside.  Finely grate pecorino cheese.  Tear mozzarella ball into 12 semi-flat ‘slices’ as opposed to chunks.  Set cheeses aside.

Using a good size mortar and pestle or a shallow baking dish and a potato masher, bash the peas with half the mint leaves and a pinch of sea salt.  Add the fava beans a few at a time and crush to a thick green paste.

Add a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for a lovely consistency and to really bring it all together.  Mix in grated pecorino and two thirds of the lemon juice.  At this point, taste the mixture.  You want to balance the richness of the pecorino and olive oil with the freshness of the peas, beans and mint. Season with more salt and pepper, as needed.

Place the 12 baguette slices on a rimmed cookie sheet lined with parchment or aluminum foil.  Broil on low, 2-3 minutes on each side.  While still hot, rub each slice with a cut half of the garlic clove. 

Cover each slice of baguette with a thick layer of paste, not too evenly, to keep the presentation a bit rustic.  Top the pea mixture with a piece of buffalo mozzarella.  Mound a few pea shoots and some mint leaves atop each bruschetta.  Place on serving platter and drizzle with a mixture of remaining 1/3 lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.

Best served immediately with a glass of prosecco or pinot grigio.  Do not make more than an hour in advance. 

This mixture would work well tossed with pasta, pesto-style, or try adding a dollop atop grilled or broiled white fish.

Recipe adapted from ‘Jamie at Home – Cook Your Way to the Good Life’ by Jamie Oliver.

fresh figs with chevre, mint and prosciutto

yields 12 pieces

ingredients

1 pint (about 12)  fresh mission figs (skin should be bulging but not broken and slightly softer than a ripe peach)
1 – 4 oz. plain chevre at room temperature (i.e. Laura Chenel)
4 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma
1 small bunch fresh mint
Maldon sea salt or fleur de sel

directions

Gently rinse figs and pat dry.  Set aside.  Open goat cheese package and have a small spoon at the ready.  Slice or tear prosciutto into 12 one inch wide ribbons.  Wash and pat dry mint.  Pluck 12 mint leaves for garnish.  

With a paring knife, remove the figs’ tough tips.  Take a thin slice off the bottom, giving the figs a flat surface as stability for serving.  Cut figs crosswise, about halfway down, creating four points and a cavity in the center for the cheese.  

Using a teaspoon, fill center of each fig with chevre, 1-3 teaspoons depending on size of fig.  Sprinkle a pinch of Maldon or other coarse salt over chevre.  Place prosciutto in the center or each fig.  Garnish with mint leaf.

For best flavor, serve at room temperature or slightly cooler, not straight from the refrigerator. 

Recipe adapted from ‘The French Market’ by Joanne Harris and Fran Warde

crispy squash blossoms with fromage blanc and fresh mint

 

serves 2-4 starters

6 oz. fromage blanc, fresh ricotta or chevre
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 cup grated parmesan reggiano
grated zest of 1/2 lemon
1 small bunch of finely chopped fresh mint, leaves only
1 red chili or jalapeno pepper, seeds and ribs removed, and finely chopped
coarse sea salt (maldon or fleur de sel work well)
1/2 cup flour
1 cup white wine such as pinot gris
8 fresh squash blossoms, also called zucchini flowers
canola oil or extra light olive oil
1 lemon (can be same one used for zest)

 

In a small bowl, combine first six ingredients, reserving a bit of mint for garnish.  Taste and season carefully with coarse sea salt.  Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, wine and a pinch of salt until thick like heavy cream.  If it’s too thick, add more wine.  If too thin, add more water.  If you dip your finger in the batter, it should nicely coat it.

Gently, open the squash blossoms, taking care to keep them as intact as possible.  Pinch off the stamen, inside, as it tastes bitter.

Carefully fill the flowers with the cheese mixture, pressing the petals back together to form a seal around the filling.

Heat about two inches of oil to 350 degrees, using a thermometer to gauge temperature.  Turn on the kitchen fan and have a plate nearby with a layer of paper towels. 

Use tongs to dip the stuffed blossoms in the batter, one at a time, allowing the excess to drip off.  Use the tongs to place them in the hot oil.  Never drop them into the oil.  Watch for the edges to turn golden and turn once, using tongs.  Remove from oil with tongs and place on paper towels.  Repeat.  Two may be fried at the same time but be careful so they don’t stick together.  I prefer frying one at a time.  Place on serving plate and finish a squeeze of lemon, remaining chopped mint and coarse sea salt.  Eat them while they’re hot!

Delicious paired with a crisp, fruity white such as pinot gris

adapted from a recipe by Jamie Oliver

fresh alaskan halibut with asparagus, morels, sweet corn and fingerling potatoes, two ways

Spring had sprung and the time came to do something new with halibut.  Morels, with their short season, were calling my name.  Local asparagus had reared its pointy head.  The fish would happily bed down upon Russian banana fingerlings.  Sweet yellow corn was a shoo in; the ideal counterpart to an otherwise savory compilation. 

I began by slicing the potatoes in 1/4” thick ‘coins’.  Half were tossed with Maldon sea salt and olive oil and roasted in the oven on low broil; the other half were parboiled and set aside.  
Leeks pair beautifully with halibut.  I sliced two of them in half, horizontally, up to the pale green part and then cut those into 1/4”  half moons.  I then caramelized the leeks with light olive oil in my Le Creuset, at medium heat. 

After rinsing the morels to remove unwanted grime and possible insects (par for the course), I patted them dry with paper towels, quartered them and added them to the pan with the leeks, allowing the mushrooms to cook for a few minutes.  The asparagus were cut into 1/2” pieces and added to the pan with the leeks and morels. 

After a couple of minutes, I added around 1/2 cup pinot grigio and let it cook down a bit before stirring in 1/2 - 1 cup heavy cream.  Once the mixture began to simmer and thicken slightly, I removed the pan from the heat and strained the sauce, through a sieve, into a medium-sized bowl.

I poured the strained liquid into a new pan, on medium low heat.  Rather than cook the corn, I sliced the starchy sweet kernels right off the cob and into the pan, then added the parboiled potato ‘coins’ and left that mixture to warm on medium low, seasoning with salt, to taste.  The strained morel/leek/asparagus mixture went into another pan, on low heat to keep warm.

Equal parts butter and extra light olive or canola oil are ideal for searing fish, creating a perfect golden exterior, and this was the method used to cook the halibut.  I heated about 1 tablespoon of each, on medium-high, and seared small fist-sized chunks of halibut, skin off, for 2-3 minutes on each side.  When the fish is flipped too soon, it sticks.  If it resists the spatula, I wait, turning down the burner, if needed.

Once the fish was ready, I assembled the dish, starting with a base of the cream/potato/corn mixture.  I placed the seared halibut over  that and spooned the asparagus/leek/morel mixture around the fish with a mound of asparagus and morels atop the fish.  I then added a smattering of roasted potato ‘coins’ and the dish was ready to serve.  Lemon could easily be incorporated in this dish by adding a small amount of zest to the cream mixture or to finish the dish. 

This recipe is loosely based on an entree I fell in love with two summers ago at Seratto in Portland, OR.