‘poisson en papillotte’ or ‘fish in parchment’

A few years ago, I landed upon a recipe for fish in parchment or ‘poisson en papillotte’ as the French call it.  It was one of those recipes that almost wasn’t, it was so easy.  Though any fish would do, I opted for halibut and knew at once I had rediscovered an old friend. 

Parchment effectively seals in moisture, essentially poaching the fish in its own juices.  The method couldn’t be easier or more versatile and is a whole lot healthier, yet no less flavorful.  My seven year old daughter loves to make her own ‘packet’ and this is easily one of her favorite meals.  Although the recipe below showcases halibut, the same preparation would work for a wide array of fish and vegetable pairings.  

yields 4 servings
 

ingredients

rice
3 cups short grain brown rice
6 cups water
2 – 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 – 1/2 teaspoons salt

fish + vegetables
16 ounces fresh halibut, tilapia or salmon, as desired, skin removed
8 medium-sized sea scallops, optional
12 medium-sized wild shrimp or prawns, optional
1 bunch carrots, peeled and sliced in 1/4 inch rounds
2 medium crowns broccoli, florets cut in bite-sized pieces
2 small zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut in 1/2 inch pieces
12 crimini mushrooms, quartered, stems trimmed
2 –3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, sliced in 1/4 inch rings
1 lemon, cut in 4 wedges 
1 bunch fresh dill

seasoning
2 – 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
crisp white wine such as chardonnay or pinot gris, nothing too fruity
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
coarse sea salt

4 large sheets parchment paper (15 x 20)

 

directions

Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

rice
Place water, rice, butter and salt in a medium pot with a lid.  Bring to a boil.  Stir once.  Cover and reduce heat to simmer.  Cook for 40 – 50 minutes.  When water is absorbed, remove from heat and fluff with a fork.  

fish + vegetables
Rinse fish, scallops and shrimp with cold water and pat dry with paper towels.  Divide the fish into four servings.  Set aside.

Place the prepared vegetables in separate bowls.  Be sure to rinse the leeks well to remove all sand and grit. 

Place a piece of fish, off center, on the right side of the parchment, leaving a 3-inch border to the right.  Surround the fish with two scallops, three prawns and a handful each of carrots, broccoli, zucchini and mushrooms.  Place a sprig of dill over the center.  Scatter leeks over all.  Dot with one tablespoon butter, drizzle with olive oil, add a few splashes of white wine and season with coarse salt.

Fold one side of the parchment over the fish and vegetables, so that the corners meet.  Fold over the edges several times to seal the packet.  If personalizing the ingredients in each packet, use a sharpie to write initials on one of the folded-over edges. 

 

Place the packets, folded edges up, on a rimmed baking sheet.  Bake for 15 minutes at 425 degrees.  Carefully tear open the packets to retain the fragrant juices inside.  Pour fish and juices directly over a bed of brown rice and serve while hot.

no frills roast chicken with mushrooms and greens

serves 4

ingredients

1 – 3 pound free-range whole chicken 
olive oil
coarse sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)
freshly ground black pepper
20 – 25 whole crimini mushrooms, stems trimmed but not removed
1 large shallot, finely diced
4 bunches dinosaur or lacinato kale, ribs removed, torn in 1” x 3” strips
apple cider vinegar

 

directions

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Rinse the chicken in cold water and remove any giblets from the cavity.  Pat dry with paper towels, inside and out.  Trim fat around the neck, as needed.  Using your fingers, reach under the skin covering the breast and create two pockets between the skin and meat on either side of the connective tissue separating the breasts.  With a sharp knife, make a few slashes in each of the legs.  Drizzle approximately 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pockets of skin covering the breast meat.  Sprinkle some sea salt in there, as well.  Rub additional olive oil (about 2 tablespoons) on the rest of the bird and in the cavity.  Rub generously all over with sea salt and a touch of ground black pepper, lightly massaging the salt and pepper into the meat.  Truss the bird, if desired.  I find trussing a tad fussy and generally omit this step.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a Dutch oven or roasting pan, on medium high heat.  Once the oil is near smoking hot, place the chicken breast side down in the pan.  Sear for 3 – 5  minutes.  Brown each wing side by propping the bird against the walls of the pan for 3 minutes per side.  Roast uncovered, breast side up for 30 minutes.  Reduce heat to 425 degrees Fahrenheit and continue roasting.

While the chicken is in the oven, place the mushrooms on a dry towel and rub gently with the edges of the towel to remove any dirt or debris.  Next, arrange them evenly on a parchment lined baking sheet.  Drizzle with 1 – 1/2 tablespoons olive oil and season with coarse sea salt.  Toss to coat.  Place the pan on the rack below the chicken for 25 – 30 minutes, until mushrooms have reached a deep brown and are no longer seeping juices.  Remove from oven, cover loosely with foil and set aside. 

About 10 minutes before the chicken has finished cooking, remove the pan from the oven.  Using tongs, carefully place the chicken on a large dinner plate.  Cover with foil and set aside.  Place the roasting pan on a burner on high heat.  Add the chopped shallot to the pan, stirring until the shallots are soft and beginning to color.  Add the greens in batches, as space permits.  Stir in a splash of cider vinegar.  Season with salt to taste. 

Place the chicken back in the roasting pan right atop the braised greens.  Pour in any juices accumulated on the plate.  Scatter the roasted mushrooms around the bird.  Return to the oven and continue roasting for 10 –15 additional minutes.  Cooking time depends on the size of the bird, although the general rule of thumb is 20 minutes per pound.

To serve, place the chicken on a large platter over a bed of braised greens and mushrooms.  Serve with simply roasted fingerling potatoes and whole wheat buttermilk biscuits. 

pan braised greens with shallots

 

serves 4 – 6

ingredients

4 bunches greens (such as dinosaur kale, chard or collard or a mixture)
1 large shallot, finely diced
1 –2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
aleppo pepper, optional
sea salt
water

directions

Wash the greens well, being sure to carefully check for bugs and dirt.  Remove the center stalk and ribs.  Tear the greens into small strips, about one by three inches.  Rinse once more.  Place greens in a large bowl and set aside. 

In a large pan with high sides, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil on medium high heat.  Add the shallots, stirring until they are translucent and the edges are crispy brown.  Fill the pan with greens.  Stir well to mix in the shallots.  Once the first batch of greens have shrunk down, incorporate any remaining greens.  Add the vinegar and another tablespoon of olive oil.  Season with sea salt, to taste.  Add about 1/4 cup water and continue cooking for 3 –5 minutes on medium heat.  For a spicy kick, I sometimes add a pinch or two of Aleppo pepper but any chili pepper flakes will do.

Serve hot.  These are an excellent accompaniment alongside roast chicken or steak.

chard stuffed pork roast

 
hello dinner.


I have the excellent fortune of living in close proximity to a very good butcher who carries the freshest and most diverse selection of natural meat I have ever tasted or laid eyes upon, primarily sourced from local farms. 

For this recipe, my butcher butterflies the roast, allowing me to roll in the stuffing, pinwheel style.  An easier method is to cut a lengthwise slit in the center of the pork, about a half inch from the outer edge, taking care not to cut the roast in half.  The stuffing fits nicely in the center and the loin is secured with cooking twine once it is stuffed, so be sure to have that on hand.

When I prepare the stuffing, I use a special chili pepper from Syria, called Aleppo pepper.  I highly recommend this if you can find it.  Otherwise, use traditional red pepper flakes.   

chard stuffed pork roast

Serves 6

ingredients

1 bunch Swiss chard, about 6 stalks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, fine dice
3 garlic cloves, minced
coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup golden raisins
red pepper flakes (Aleppo, if available)
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 1/2 pounds pork loin roast, at room temperature

directions

Wash the chard well.  Trim the ends of the stalks, about 1/2 inch or so.  Then, cut or tear the leaves away from the center ribs.  Finely chop the ribs and tear or roughly chop the chard leaves.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, over medium heat.  Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and starts to color,  about 5 minutes.  Season with salt.  Add the chard ribs and cook for another 3 minutes.  Add the chard leaves in two batches, adding the second when the first wilts enough to make room for it.  Cook until the chard is tender, about 5 minutes longer.  Stir in the raisins and transfer the mixture to a medium bowl.  Add a pinch or so of the chili flakes, plus salt and pepper, to taste. 

Preheat oven to 375 Degrees Fahrenheit.  Wipe clean the pan used for the chard mixture and place the pan in the hot oven.

Crack the peppercorns and coriander using a mortar and pestle or place between two sheets of waxed paper and pound with a mallet or skillet.  Set aside.

If your butcher has not already done so, use a long, sharp knife to make a lengthwise slit in the pork roast, taking care not to cut the meat in two, about 1/2 inch from the outer edge.  Open the roast  and spoon the stuffing onto the meat.  Close the meat around the stuffing and tie with kitchen twine, at intervals, replacing any stuffing that escapes as you go.

Rub the pork with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, season with salt and rub the crushed peppercorns and coriander into the meat.  Carefully remove the hot roasting pan from the oven.  Place the pork loin, fat side up, in the hot pan.  Roast uncovered and undisturbed until the thickest part of the loin, not the stuffing, reaches 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  Check at 25 minutes but expect that it will take about 40 minutes. 

Once the roast is done, remove from the oven and tent lightly with foil on a plate or cutting board.  The pork should rest for 15 minutes.  Pour any juices back into the roasting pan.  Place the pan on a burner over medium high heat and add 1/2 cup water to deglaze, scraping up brown bits and simmering until the juices thicken.  Remove from heat and set aside.

With kitchen shears, remove the twine from the roast and, using a careful sawing motion, cut the meat into 3/4 inch slices with stuffing intact.  Spoon a bit of the jus over each serving, as desired. 

Serve with simply roasted fingerling potatoes and oven roasted brussel sprouts with pancetta and shallots.

Pairs well with a spicy red blend such as Balboa Cat’s Meow or Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red.


*Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s exceptional cookbook, ‘Around My French Table’

turkey 3-bean chili

serves 8-10

ingredients

6 strips thick bacon, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
2 1/2 pounds ground dark meat turkey (I use Diestel)
3-4 cups chopped yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
1/4 cup fresh garlic, minced
2 small fresh jalapeno chiles (ribs and seeds removed), minced
3 tablespoons chili powder
3 tablespoons cocoa powder
4 teaspoons ground cumin
2- 28 ounce cans diced tomatoes in puree (such as San Marzano)
2 tablespoons unsulfured molasses
1 15.5. oz. can organic black beans, drained and rinsed
1 15.5 oz can organic pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1 15.5 oz can organic kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 tablespoon canola or extra light olive oil
3 teaspoons salt plus additional to season

toppings

sour cream
shredded jack or pepper jack cheese
cilantro
pickled peppers

 



directions

Heat a 5-quart cast iron or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat.  Add bacon, cooking until well-crisped.  Remove bacon from pan with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Add jalapeno to drippings, stirring to lightly color.  Add garlic, stirring again until fragrant and beginning to color.  Turn heat to medium high and add olive oil to garlic jalapeno mixture.  Add onions, stirring occasionally until translucent and slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. 

Increase heat to high.  Add ground turkey, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until cooked through.  Drain as needed but reserve the liquid.  Once the meat is no longer pink and begins to brown, stir in the chili and cocoa powders and the cumin.  Stir in bacon.

Add the tomatoes and puree, breaking them up a bit with a spoon.  Add molasses and 1 cup reserved liquid plus 3 teaspoons salt.  Reduce heat to simmer.  Cook, partially covered, for about 30 minutes. 

Add beans, stirring gently, until well combined.  Cook uncovered until meat and beans are tender and chili thickens, at least 30 minutes or longer, as desired. 

Serve with assorted toppings

This chili recipe is loosely adapted from Everyday Food, Issue #10, January/February 2005.

split pea soup with ham

 

serves 12

ingredients

stock
1 ham shank
1 tablespoon canola or extra light olive oil 
12 black peppercorns
5 sprigs fresh thyme
5 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
1 carrot, chopped in 3 pieces
1-2 celery stalks with leaves, chopped in 3 pieces each
1 wedge of yellow onion
1/2 leek, split lengthwise 
10-12 cups water

mirepoix + ham + garlic 
6-8 carrots, 1/2-dice
6-8 celery stalks, 1/2-inch dice
10-12 ounces ham steak, 1/2-inch dice
2 medium onions, 1/2 inch dice
8-10 cloves minced garlic
2 pounds split peas
canola or extra light olive oil
1 –2 teaspoons sea salt

directions

stock
Heat the oil in a large pot, on medium high.  Brown the ham shank on all sides.  Create a bouquet garni by placing the remaining stock ingredients in a cheesecloth or soup sock.  Tie loose ends securely and place in the pot along with the ham shank.  Cover with water, and simmer for up to one hour.

mirepoix + ham + garlic
While the stock simmers, add a few glugs of canola or extra light olive oil to a large heavy bottom skillet, on medium heat.  Add the garlic, stirring until fragrant and lightly colored.  Next, add the onions, stirring for about 5 minutes.  Turn heat to medium high and add the ham.  Stir intermittently, allowing the ham to color a bit.  When the ham begins to brown, add in carrots and celery, stirring until vegetables begin to soften a bit but still hold their shape.

Remove bouquet garni and ham shank from the stock pot.  Skim or strain any foam or loose bits floating in the stock.  Bring stock to a boil.  Add peas, ham and vegetables and additional water to .  Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes to one hour.  Season with salt to taste.  Soup keeps well, refrigerated, for up to three days and freezes well for up to three months.  Warm over low heat, adding additional water as needed.

whole wheat buttermilk yeast rolls

 
yields approximately 24 rolls

ingredients

1 package active dry yeast (fleischman’s)
1/4 cup warm water
3 cups room temperature buttermilk
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup melted butter, cooled
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
5-6 cups whole wheat pastry flour*
2 cups unbleached white flour 

directions

Put yeast and water in a mixing bowl.  Stir until dissolved.  Add room temp buttermilk and sugar.  Let the mixture stand (to proof) for 15 minutes.

Add the melted butter and beaten eggs to the buttermilk mixture.  Whisk to combine.  At this point, my mom prefers to use her KitchenAid.  I like to do it by hand.  If using a stand mixer, begin with the paddle attachment. 

In another bowl, sift the soda, salt and 4 cups of whole wheat pastry flour.  Add the flour mixture to the liquid until a smooth batter forms.  If you are using an electric mixer, switch out the paddle for the dough hook at this time.  Add the white flour, beating well until incorporated.  Add the remaining wheat flour, 1/2 cup at a time, until a fairly smooth dough begins to form.  It may not be necessary to use all of the flour.  Stop adding flour if the dough starts to lose its sheen.  Knead the dough with a dough hook or by hand for about 8 minutes, until smooth and satiny (dough made with wheat flour will be less satiny than dough made with white flour).

Place dough in a buttered bowl and butter the top of the dough, as well.  Cover with a towel and rise in a warm place for one hour.  Pinch off sections of dough roughly the size of golf balls.  Place balls of dough on a parchment lined baking sheet.  Rise for an additional 30 minutes.  Bake rolls at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15-20 minutes, until tops are light golden brown.  About 10 minutes into baking, I like to brush the tops with butter but this is optional. 

Unbaked, these rolls freeze quite well.  Place them in the freezer on a baking sheet, for about half an hour.  Once they are firm, transfer to sealable freezer bags.  Thaw frozen rolls at room temperature.  Remove  them from the freezer a few hours ahead of time and transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet 30 minutes before baking.

* I use Bob’s Red Mill organically grown whole wheat pastry flour.  They also make a non-organic version.  Either is fine.  White wheat flour is not the same as whole wheat pastry flour.  I have tried both and much prefer the pastry flour.

salmon nicoise

Serves 4

1 1/2 – 2 lbs wild king salmon filets
(I recommend looking for filets with plenty of white marbling as the fat is good for you and adds flavor and moisture to the fish)
1 1/2 lbs fresh haricots verts or green beans 
1 pint organic cherry tomatoes
1 large handful nicoise olives
1 small bunch organic basil
1/2  large lemon
unsalted butter
canola or extra light olive oil
good quality extra virgin olive oil
Maldon sea salt

First, rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towels.  Check the fish carefully for bones and remove any that you find.  Cut salmon four pieces.  Season with salt.  Set aside.  

Halve or quarter the cherry tomatoes, depending on size.  Pit and quarter the nicoise olives.  Chop the basil into confetti-like strips.  Cut half a lemon into two wedges.  Wash and trim the haricots verts.  Blanch haricots verts for a few minutes in a steamer basket.  Do not overcook.  They should be bright green and still fairly firm.  Try one.  If it tastes raw, give it an extra minute or two.  Rinse beans with cold water and set aside.

Turn a large skillet on medium high.  Add 1 T unsalted butter and 1 T canola or extra light olive oil.  Once the butter begins to bubble but not quite brown, add the salmon, skin side up.  If the butter browns too quickly, turn the burner down to medium.  Leave the fish to sear for 3-5 minutes.  Using tongs, turn thicker chunks on each side to sear.  Once the exterior is nicely browned, turn the fish skin side down and allow to cook for an additional 3 minutes.  Remove fish from pan with tongs and set on a plate.  

Using the same pan, adjust heat to medium and add the haricots verts, tossing with any remaining juices in the pan.  Add tomatoes and olives tossing again to combine.  Squeeze lemon juice from 2 wedges over the mixture and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.  Mix in the chopped basil.   Season with salt.    Place the salmon in the pan, on top of the haricots verts mixture, and broil in the oven on low for 2-4 minutes, keeping a close eye on the fish. 

Divide the haricots verts between four dinner plates and place a salmon filet in the center of each plate.  Evenly distribute any remaining juices and serve with slightly sour crusty bread such as the rosemary diamante from Essential Baking Company.

Salmon pairs beautifully with red wine.  Try it with the Firehouse Red from Tamarack Cellars, a Columbia Valley red blend.

chicken pot pie

in loving memory of my stepmom georgina who loved chicken pot pie best of all.

One afternoon, I stood in front of my favorite produce stand, in the Pike Place Market and awaited my turn while simultaneously awaiting divine inspiration for dinner.  I soon overlooked divinity in favor of eavesdropping as the woman ahead of me shared her dinner plans:  chicken pot pie with bacon, marjoram and crème fraiche.  You had me at bacon.

It was an “I’ll have what she’s having” moment.  Of course, no recipe is complete without a few personal touches. 

As the woman in front of me rattled off her list of ingredients, which included carrots, green beans and onions, I omitted onions in favor of leeks and tacked on fingerling potatoes, which I planned to slice in 1/4 inch rounds and parboiled to insure doneness.  I opted for organic bunch carrots rather than the suggested baby carrots, which was a minor detail.  The original recipe called for an already roasted deli chicken.  I decided to buy free range chicken breasts, rub them with olive oil and sea salt and broil them in the oven.  I increased the amount of crème fraiche, to make a thicker sauce, and I added white wine, a sauvignon blanc.

Puff pastry is to chicken pot pie what icing is to cake and I like to gussy mine up with petite hearts, crimped edges and an egg wash.  The little hearts puff up adorably when they bake.  Puff pastry is something that I have not attempted to make myself but I generally find the grocery store varieties disappoint.  They contain hydrogenated fat among other unpronounceable ingredients.  As luck would have it, there is an outstanding puff pastry called Dufour, available at gourmet grocery stores, nationwide, such as Metropolitan Market, in Seattle.  It is award winning and with good reason.  The ingredient which puts the Dufour dough on its pedestal is high quality European butter, sorely lacking in its hydrogenated counterparts.  The price tag will set you back about triple what you pay for the other brands but it is worth every penny.

I love making this chicken pot pie for new moms and I usually tuck a few extras in our freezer for evenings when inspiration proves elusive.

When I wearily utter the words, “What should I make for dinner?” 

My daughter, Annabelle will often reply, “My, oh my, chicken pot pie!”