‘poisson en papillotte’ or ‘fish in parchment’

A few years ago, I landed upon a recipe for fish in parchment or ‘poisson en papillotte’ as the French call it.  It was one of those recipes that almost wasn’t, it was so easy.  Though any fish would do, I opted for halibut and knew at once I had rediscovered an old friend. 

Parchment effectively seals in moisture, essentially poaching the fish in its own juices.  The method couldn’t be easier or more versatile and is a whole lot healthier, yet no less flavorful.  My seven year old daughter loves to make her own ‘packet’ and this is easily one of her favorite meals.  Although the recipe below showcases halibut, the same preparation would work for a wide array of fish and vegetable pairings.  

yields 4 servings
 

ingredients

rice
3 cups short grain brown rice
6 cups water
2 – 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 – 1/2 teaspoons salt

fish + vegetables
16 ounces fresh halibut, tilapia or salmon, as desired, skin removed
8 medium-sized sea scallops, optional
12 medium-sized wild shrimp or prawns, optional
1 bunch carrots, peeled and sliced in 1/4 inch rounds
2 medium crowns broccoli, florets cut in bite-sized pieces
2 small zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut in 1/2 inch pieces
12 crimini mushrooms, quartered, stems trimmed
2 –3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, sliced in 1/4 inch rings
1 lemon, cut in 4 wedges 
1 bunch fresh dill

seasoning
2 – 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
crisp white wine such as chardonnay or pinot gris, nothing too fruity
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
coarse sea salt

4 large sheets parchment paper (15 x 20)

 

directions

Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

rice
Place water, rice, butter and salt in a medium pot with a lid.  Bring to a boil.  Stir once.  Cover and reduce heat to simmer.  Cook for 40 – 50 minutes.  When water is absorbed, remove from heat and fluff with a fork.  

fish + vegetables
Rinse fish, scallops and shrimp with cold water and pat dry with paper towels.  Divide the fish into four servings.  Set aside.

Place the prepared vegetables in separate bowls.  Be sure to rinse the leeks well to remove all sand and grit. 

Place a piece of fish, off center, on the right side of the parchment, leaving a 3-inch border to the right.  Surround the fish with two scallops, three prawns and a handful each of carrots, broccoli, zucchini and mushrooms.  Place a sprig of dill over the center.  Scatter leeks over all.  Dot with one tablespoon butter, drizzle with olive oil, add a few splashes of white wine and season with coarse salt.

Fold one side of the parchment over the fish and vegetables, so that the corners meet.  Fold over the edges several times to seal the packet.  If personalizing the ingredients in each packet, use a sharpie to write initials on one of the folded-over edges. 

 

Place the packets, folded edges up, on a rimmed baking sheet.  Bake for 15 minutes at 425 degrees.  Carefully tear open the packets to retain the fragrant juices inside.  Pour fish and juices directly over a bed of brown rice and serve while hot.

chocolate cream pie with malted whipped cream and macadamia brittle

This decadent pie is a close interpretation of one served at Bar Tartine, hands down my favorite San Francisco restaurant.  There’s no denying the pie has a lot going on; yet each component is intrinsic to the final result.  Silky chocolate filling and buttery graham cracker crust mingle with comforting malted whipped cream and the salty sweet crunch of macadamia brittle in harmonious accord.  The recipe requires a measure of advance planning but the steps are well laid out and your efforts will be handsomely rewarded.

Ingredients

crust
3/4 cup chopped macadamia nuts
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs
2 Tablespoons flour
2 Tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar 
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

filling
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 cup heavy cream + 1-1/3 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup buttermilk
3 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
Pinch salt
4 egg yolks 
4 ounces semisweet chocolate (such as Scharffen Berger), finely chopped 
1 tablespoon unsalted butter 
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

macadamia brittle
1 cup shelled macadamia nuts (salted)
2/3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons cane syrup (lyle’s or steen’s)
3 tablespoons water
1/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda

malted whipped cream
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
1- 1/2 tablespoons malt powder
1- 1/2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

Directions

crust
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Brush a 9-inch pie tin with melted butter.

In a food processor, finely grind macadamia nuts with graham-cracker crumbs, flour and sugar.  Blend in butter. Press mixture into bottom and up the sides of prepared pan. Chill in freezer for 10 minutes.  Bake for 8 minutes.  Return to freezer for 10 minutes.  Bake 6-8 minutes longer. Cool crust, 30 minutes.

filling
In a small saucepan combine sugar, 3/4 cup heavy cream, buttermilk, cornstarch and pinch of salt, and whisk until smooth. Place over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil, whisking from time to time for the sugar and cornstarch to dissolve and the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Continue cooking at a low boil for an additional 5 minutes, whisking constantly.

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly. Pour 1/2 cup of the hot mixture into the egg yolks and whisk thoroughly. Pour the egg yolk mixture into the saucepan and whisk over the heat until thoroughly combined and very thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the mixture into a mixing bowl, and whisk in the chocolate, butter and vanilla. Continue whisking until thoroughly combined (mixture will be very thick). Cover the mixture with plastic wrap placed directly on the surface and refrigerate until cooled to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Place 1 1/3 cups heavy cream in a chilled mixing bowl and add the confectioners' sugar. Beat until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the cool chocolate pudding mixture.

 

Spoon the chocolate mixture into the prepared pie crust and refrigerate until firm and cool, at least 4 hours for best results.  In a pinch, 2 hours in the freezer should do the trick. When ready to serve, top the pie with malted whipped cream and brittle.  Serve immediately.

macadamia brittle
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Spread the nuts on a baking tray lined with parchment and toast them in the oven until light golden, 4-6 minutes, turning the nuts after 3 minutes so they toast evenly.  Remove nuts from the pan and cool to room temperature. Coarsely chop the nuts and set aside.

Put the sugar in a medium saucepan. Add the cane syrup and water.  Stir to mix and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Continue boiling, undisturbed, until a layer of bubbles forms on top, 3 to 4 minutes. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and continue to boil undisturbed for 5 minutes longer. Place a wooden spoon on top of the foil to keep down.

Remove the foil and add the butter.  Gently stir with a wooden spoon a few times. When the butter has combined with the sugar mixture and forms a soft boil, add your candy thermometer.  Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until a candy thermometer inserted into the mixture registers 300 degrees, about 8-10 minutes (depending on your cookware). Meanwhile, grease a 9 x 12 inch sheet pan with butter or nonstick cooking spray.

When the sugar mixture reaches the desired temperature, immediately but carefully stir in the salt, baking soda and chopped macadamia nuts. Using a long metal spatula, spread the nut mixture as thinly and evenly as possible over the prepared pan. Leave the brittle to cool to room temperature. The brittle will harden very quickly.

When the brittle is completely cooled and hardened, run a clean, dry towel over the brittle's surface to absorb some of the oil, if needed. Carefully cut or tap the brittle with a mallet to break it into irregular pieces. Store in one or more airtight containers at cool room temperature.

malted whipped cream
Place the heavy cream in a chilled bowl, add the malt and confectioners' sugar.  Beat until stiff peaks form.  Cover and chill until needed.

assembly
Spoon malted whipped cream into a pastry bag or plastic bag with one corner snipped off.  Pipe poufs of whipped cream on each slice of pie.  Garnish with shards of macadamia brittle.  Serve.

 

Chocolate filling adapted from Emeril Lagasse.  Macadamia brittle from Food.com.  Crust adapted from ‘Baked: New Frontiers in Baking’ by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito.

no frills roast chicken with mushrooms and greens

serves 4

ingredients

1 – 3 pound free-range whole chicken 
olive oil
coarse sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)
freshly ground black pepper
20 – 25 whole crimini mushrooms, stems trimmed but not removed
1 large shallot, finely diced
4 bunches dinosaur or lacinato kale, ribs removed, torn in 1” x 3” strips
apple cider vinegar

 

directions

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Rinse the chicken in cold water and remove any giblets from the cavity.  Pat dry with paper towels, inside and out.  Trim fat around the neck, as needed.  Using your fingers, reach under the skin covering the breast and create two pockets between the skin and meat on either side of the connective tissue separating the breasts.  With a sharp knife, make a few slashes in each of the legs.  Drizzle approximately 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pockets of skin covering the breast meat.  Sprinkle some sea salt in there, as well.  Rub additional olive oil (about 2 tablespoons) on the rest of the bird and in the cavity.  Rub generously all over with sea salt and a touch of ground black pepper, lightly massaging the salt and pepper into the meat.  Truss the bird, if desired.  I find trussing a tad fussy and generally omit this step.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a Dutch oven or roasting pan, on medium high heat.  Once the oil is near smoking hot, place the chicken breast side down in the pan.  Sear for 3 – 5  minutes.  Brown each wing side by propping the bird against the walls of the pan for 3 minutes per side.  Roast uncovered, breast side up for 30 minutes.  Reduce heat to 425 degrees Fahrenheit and continue roasting.

While the chicken is in the oven, place the mushrooms on a dry towel and rub gently with the edges of the towel to remove any dirt or debris.  Next, arrange them evenly on a parchment lined baking sheet.  Drizzle with 1 – 1/2 tablespoons olive oil and season with coarse sea salt.  Toss to coat.  Place the pan on the rack below the chicken for 25 – 30 minutes, until mushrooms have reached a deep brown and are no longer seeping juices.  Remove from oven, cover loosely with foil and set aside. 

About 10 minutes before the chicken has finished cooking, remove the pan from the oven.  Using tongs, carefully place the chicken on a large dinner plate.  Cover with foil and set aside.  Place the roasting pan on a burner on high heat.  Add the chopped shallot to the pan, stirring until the shallots are soft and beginning to color.  Add the greens in batches, as space permits.  Stir in a splash of cider vinegar.  Season with salt to taste. 

Place the chicken back in the roasting pan right atop the braised greens.  Pour in any juices accumulated on the plate.  Scatter the roasted mushrooms around the bird.  Return to the oven and continue roasting for 10 –15 additional minutes.  Cooking time depends on the size of the bird, although the general rule of thumb is 20 minutes per pound.

To serve, place the chicken on a large platter over a bed of braised greens and mushrooms.  Serve with simply roasted fingerling potatoes and whole wheat buttermilk biscuits. 

pan braised greens with shallots

 

serves 4 – 6

ingredients

4 bunches greens (such as dinosaur kale, chard or collard or a mixture)
1 large shallot, finely diced
1 –2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
aleppo pepper, optional
sea salt
water

directions

Wash the greens well, being sure to carefully check for bugs and dirt.  Remove the center stalk and ribs.  Tear the greens into small strips, about one by three inches.  Rinse once more.  Place greens in a large bowl and set aside. 

In a large pan with high sides, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil on medium high heat.  Add the shallots, stirring until they are translucent and the edges are crispy brown.  Fill the pan with greens.  Stir well to mix in the shallots.  Once the first batch of greens have shrunk down, incorporate any remaining greens.  Add the vinegar and another tablespoon of olive oil.  Season with sea salt, to taste.  Add about 1/4 cup water and continue cooking for 3 –5 minutes on medium heat.  For a spicy kick, I sometimes add a pinch or two of Aleppo pepper but any chili pepper flakes will do.

Serve hot.  These are an excellent accompaniment alongside roast chicken or steak.

the very best whole wheat buttermilk biscuits

 

yields 10 biscuits

ingredients

1 – 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup unbleached white flour
1 tablespoon + 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cold butter, cut in 1/4” pieces
3/4 cup buttermilk

directions

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

In a medium bowl, whisk together all dry ingredients.  Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut cold butter into the mixture until it resembles pea-sized coarse crumbs.  It is imperative that the butter is cold and that the pieces of butter are visible.  These pieces create pockets of air during baking, resulting in lighter, flakier biscuits.

Make a well in the center of the mixture.  Pour in the buttermilk, stirring with a large fork until it just clings together.  Do not over mix.  Dump the dough onto a flour surface.  With floured hands, gently pat and press the dough together.  Roll or pat the the dough to one inch thick.  Cut with a biscuit cutter or a glass that is 2 1/2” inches in diameter. 

Place biscuits one inch apart on a parchment lined baking sheet.  For more rustic biscuits, place the cutouts close together in a nine inch cake pan.  This may increase baking time slightly.

Bake for 12 – 15 minutes, checking at 10 minutes to determine progress.  Tops will be light golden brown when the biscuits are ready.  I like to pull one biscuit apart to be sure it’s no longer doughy in the center.  Serve hot with plenty of butter and honey.

 

whole wheat ham and cheddar biscuits

These are a huge hit with children and adults, alike.  Simply fold in 3 ounces chopped ham and 3 ounces chopped cheddar cheese before adding the buttermilk.  Increase buttermilk to one cup.  Additional flour may be needed when patting or rolling out the dough.  Be careful not to overwork the dough or your biscuits will be tough.  Cut into 2 - 1/2 inch rounds and bake at 450 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-12 minutes.  These tend to bake faster than the regular biscuits. 

Serve with fruit for a light lunch or hearty snack.